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Some people say it's even taken the fun out of gambling. Others, like Mayor Barbara Allen, believe it was a matter of survival: "We have a degree of confidence now that we'll still be here tomorrow," she says. After three separate votes in the state legislature, the bet limit narrowly passed, only to be defeated in a statewide referendum that anti-gambling forces in South Dakota campaigned to put on the ballot. He says he'll probably sell the hotel then, because "it gets hard seeing people lose their money gambling. This is the mining camp, founded in , where Wild Bill Hickok was shot. Plans include an hole golf course, tennis courts, an equestrian center, a fishing lake, a snow bowl for sledding, a full gym, and of course, the casino. There wasn't much to cannibalize, and within a year, they were all gone. The change was dramatic: Deadwood went from boarded-up to booming almost overnight. City hall and the police station moved into new digs, and a visitors' center was opened in the old train station. In addition, state-operated video-lottery machines greet South Dakotans in nearly every pizza parlor, bar and liquor store. The new gambling era began at high noon on Nov. He wishes he had the money to finish the hotel, but he still hasn't paid last year's taxes. Betty Whittington, a Deadwood, You Bet member who has since changed her campaign buttons to read "Deadwood For Sale," says town leaders might have put the brakes on the explosive growth. Before gambling there were nine stores in downtown Deadwood, including three car dealerships, a department store, a few clothing shops and an auto-parts store, points out Susan Kightlinger, a former Chamber of Commerce employee. Deadwood's state of limbo is apparent at the Fairmont Hotel. But amid all the new money, the locals lost control. A few have moved away in disgust. Streets and sidewalks were ripped up to restore the cobblestones and to put in new water mains. And despite the enormous amount of money flowing through the town, Lucile Tracy, who runs a program called the Lord's Cupboard for the Methodist church in nearby Lead, says she hands out food to about people a month, compared to three people a week before gambling arrived. Now it's too corporate and state regulators wouldn't allow it. Resort planners are hoping to lure urban professionals from both coasts and from abroad - especially from Japan, where people are crazy about Kevin Costner and the Wild West. He can talk for hours about his plans for the hotel, or about the junk he's found while renovating: suitcases belonging to the bums who once slept here and old gaming tables hidden during a big raid in the s. The goal wasn't to recreate Las Vegas, but rather to supply an economic shot in the arm. With acres and rooms decorated Ralph Lauren Western-style, it promises to be a hotel the likes of which the Wild West has never seen. They criss-crossed the state drumming up support for a state constitutional amendment legalizing limited gambling inside the city limits of Deadwood. Downstairs, in the basement, he shows off the bar where he hosts parties for the bikers in August; the countertop is recycled from one of Deadwood's defunct bowling lanes. She took that move in stride - after all, she had seen other area residents relocated for expansions in mining, which was Deadwood's mainstay industry before gambling. The Dunbar will cater to a whole new corporate clientele, says Fisher. Hilda Fredericksen, who raised six children in Deadwood, misses the old bowling alley the most. Elmer Pritchard, a city commissioner and owner of the town's Laundromat, says his slot machines don't make him any real money. Town leaders proposed a limited number of machines for each building; the first suggestion was 15, later upped to Gambling would act as a magnet to draw in tourists. Now, it's Deadwood Gulch Resort, with a casino and an 8,square-foot arcade - Gulches of Fun - for kids. In gambling, it's called chasing your losses. Today, it seems more like a stalemate than a boom. To open a casino, businesses would also have to run another non-gambling enterprise such as a restaurant, bar or soda fountain. Mayor Allen says town leaders are trying to avoid "Aspenization" by bringing back a sense of community. A brothel in boom times and a flophouse during busts, it's now a casino. Summer provided the biggest boost, when thousands of bikers rolled into town for the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Classic and Rally, the second-largest biker gathering in the nation. Legal or not, some bars offered poker games and "for amusement only" slot machines. Townspeople have heard the rest before: They won't come just for gambling. Then town leaders hit on an idea: Why not legalize some gambling and turn Deadwood into a year-round tourist town? Enter Kevin Costner, the Hollywood actor, and his brother Dan.

Note: This article accompanies another feature story, " Gambling: A tribe hits the jackpot. The Fredericksens best casino in deadwood have to move again. After the last defeat, the Costners threatened to pull the plug on the project. In seven years, Deadwood's gaming halls have multiplied, going from nine at the start to a current high of Today the town has 2, slot machines and 68 blackjack and poker tables.

Now, the people of Deadwood are split on whether their new-found prosperity is worth it. Stalemate, not boom There's a phenomenon scholars call "cannibalization" that often occurs when gambling is introduced in a free-market economy.

Instead, taxes have gone up all over the state. Virtually no retail exists in downtown Deadwood today - and there are definitely no gathering spots like Marie's Cafe.

Gambling proponents promised property taxes would go down because link best casino in deadwood profits. He hopes to pay them soon - and get back the wine best casino in deadwood the city suspended - when he sells some property to the city.

Trucano and seven other locals formed a committee called "Deadwood, You Bet" to promote the idea. Though it's difficult to imagine amid the din of slot machines, visit web page people predict Deadwood will become South Dakota's Aspen - a once-funky mining town transformed by big bucks and newcomers into a resort for the rich and famous.

By loosely defining what a "building" was, some casinos were allowed to put in more than 30 machines. Russo, a former cable TV executive with a New Jersey accent, is eccentric enough to fit in with Best casino in deadwood past.

Since most casinos don't allow minors, they say the only remaining hang-outs are the fast food joints. The railroad and steam trains will be paid for by state bonds best casino in deadwood guaranteed by the Dunbar.

The downstairs is mostly restored to its historic glory; the upstairs remains stuck in the flophouse days. Usually wearing a leather vest, he looks like a biker who came to the Sturgis Rally and never left. Now they're planning a resort and casino, scheduled to open in May , that should transform the town yet again. Then as casinos rake in cash hand over fist, the hold-outs soon sell or convert to a casino. Property owners are also being hit. He'd only been in town a few weeks when he made the fatal mistake of sitting with his back to the door, playing a poker hand of black aces and eights, known thereafter as a Dead Man's Hand. Residents like Hilda Fredericksen and her husband, Dwayne, moved from a house downtown to Deadwood's only mobile-home park, Claim Jumpers, when casino traffic made parking too difficult. Except for a few hundred jobs provided by the Homestake Gold Mine, the town scraped by on seasonal tourism. They feel they forfeited their downtown in a Faustian trade for survival. The upstairs still housed prostitutes. It wasn't unusual for a bar owner to return money to customers who lost too much. They will come for conventions, to ski at one of the two local resorts or simply to enjoy the beauty of the Black Hills. Fits and starts But it's been rough going for the Costners, slow enough to make some locals wonder whether it will really happen. Shortly after gambling became legal, he and his brother bought the Midnight Star, which they turned into the classiest casino and restaurant in Deadwood. Deadwood enjoyed a brief monopoly when gambling first became legal, but three mining towns in Colorado and scores of Indian reservations have since opened up casinos of their own. Russo believes real estate will rebound when Deadwood becomes more a destination resort. A deal with the devil Some residents say all the other growing pains pale in comparison to the loss of community. The town hopes to build a regulation-size ballfield and spruce up the rodeo grounds. Before legalization, people used to make sure problem gamblers didn't get in too deep, says Whittington. The Sioux have long fought for land rights in the Black Hills, and some were angered by the brothers' plans to build a resort on land they consider theirs. The city renovated its fire station, museum and library. Having bought in at inflated prices, Deadwood casino owners find it almost impossible to sell. Cannibalization has extended to the casinos themselves, as some, especially the smaller ones, are finding it hard to make a living in such a competitive world. It approved casinos whose only retail was a T-shirt or candy stand. First, a land trade between the Costners and the Forest Service angered a few vocal Lakota Sioux, one of the tribes that had befriended Costner during the movie filming. Deadwood was almost dead, and a new Wal-Mart and Kmart in nearby Spearfish promised to put the final nail in the coffin. The improvements were underwritten with bonds the city is paying back with gambling taxes. But gambling has exacted a price: When the people of Deadwood lost control as casinos proliferated in their town, they also lost control of their rents, their taxes, their mobility and their community. So the state, the county and the town of Deadwood offered the brothers millions in tax breaks, plus help with a short-line railroad between Rapid City and Deadwood. Real estate speculation drives prices sky high on Main Street; many businesses willingly sell out to the first buyer. Tax revenue from gaming would help prop up the crumbling buildings and replace outdated water and sewer lines. This rough-and-tumble legacy lingered until the s, when state and federal agents shut down the last three whorehouses and many retailers closed their doors. Although Deadwood residents say they still feel safe, crime has increased nearly three-fold since gambling - and its attendant growth and tourism - began. The signature drive worked: It went to the ballot and passed in November , by 64 percent; the state legislature passed enabling legislation in April of the next year; and finally, Deadwood citizens approved gambling in a special town election. Based on the original architecture, the foundation plan or the number of businesses, the gaming commission might decide a single structure should be counted as two or three buildings. Hilda Fredericksen says it's a standing joke: "Gee whiz, we have to go to Sturgis, Spearfish or Rapid City to see someone you know from Deadwood. This would bring back the flavor and fun that had left with the madams. But, the thinking went, the town itself, and the beauty of the Black Hills, would keep them coming back. The Gold Mine resort, a new hotel in the planning stages, is bending the law creatively: Its foundation is split into 13 foundations, enough "buildings' for slot machines.